In September 2023 I spent a few days exploring Lisbon in Portugal on a solo trip that I’d been dreaming about for a long time.  This (ahem, eighteen months late) blog post is part two of a series of travel diaries documenting what I got up to whilst I was there.  You can read all about my first two days of exploring Lisbon in part one here.

Exploring Lisbon

The loose plan for my travels was to see the major sights of the city; to discover as many off-the-beaten-path hidden gems as possible; to go on some pre-planned day trips; and to simply wander the city getting lost amongst the side streets as well.   I managed to cover all of those and more during the four days I spent exploring Lisbon.

The city took my breath away time and time again, in so many unexpected ways.  I loved it there, which I hope comes across in the photos and words I’m sharing here.  There was so much more I wanted to see and do whilst I was there that I just couldn’t squeeze in during the time I had.  I’d go back in a heartbeat.

Stumbling across pretty corners whilst exploring Lisbon….

Travel Diary

TUESDAY – {day trip}

I was very excited for this particular day of my solo adventure in Lisbon.  I’d spent weeks researching and planning a big day trip to Sintra, intending to see Pena Palace, the Castle of the Moors, the National Palace and Quinta de la Regaleira.  I pre-booked tickets online before I travelled to Portugal – it seemed easier than trying to do it on the day and I would recommend this to anyone wanting to visit as there are various combinations of tickets you can buy depending on which sites you want to visit.

I arrived at Rossio station by 8am, ready to hop onboard the 8.11am train to Sintra, a journey lasting about 40 minutes that would take me all the way to the end of the line.  As we trundled along I kept catching sight of lush green mountains and hillsides still shrouded in a fine layer of early morning mist, with snatches of promising blue sky peeking through the clouds here and there.

On arriving in Sintra, I had a little wander into the historic centre just to get my bearings – Pena Palace and the Moorish Castle are off in one direction, the National Palace is right in the centre of the town and then Quinta de la Regaleira is in the opposite direction.

Street art in Sintra

I caught the 434 bus from historic Sintra and, once it had battled through the town traffic, tuk-tuks and tourists casually wandering in the road, we began our ascent.  Up and up and up we climbed, hairpin turn after hairpin turn.  We met other vehicles coming down the hill and I think every single one of us passengers collectively held our breath in an attempt to encourage the bus to be able to squeeze past.  As the crow flies, it’s only a 1km journey, but the route the bus takes is so twisty that it actually ends up travelling a distance of 10km. The journey was supposed to take about 20mins but it was more like 30-40.  Definitely allow extra time to get there ahead of your timed ticket entry.  It’s not a journey for the faint-hearted (or the motion-sick), that’s for sure!

It was 100% worth every treacherous moment though.  Walking up through the leafy pathways of Pena Park and getting the first tantalising glimpse of the fairytale turrets of Pena Palace was very cool.  It really is quite a phenomenal structure – it’s kaleidoscopic colours and fantastical architecture draws inspiration from a multitude of different design eras throughout history.  It looks like something that could be at home in the world of Willy Wonka and it shouldn’t work at all but somehow it does.  Every aspect of it is astonishing.  The views were also spectacular and if you can get there on a clear day you can see all the way to Cascais. The detail in everything was astounding and the interiors were beautiful too – ornate ceilings and opulent royal living quarters.  It does get very busy though so be prepared for inevitable queues.

Pena Palace really is like nothing I’ve ever seen before

Every level and every corner had something new and unexpected to see

The details in everything were exquisite

Triton’s Terrace at Pena Palace

Having explored as much of Pena Palace as I could, I walked downhill through Pena Park.  It was wonderfully cool under the green canopy of trees, and I enjoyed the peace and quiet of being able to wander along the pathways past serene lakes and copious varieties of ferns and plants without crowds of people jostling for space.

Once at the bottom, I then hiked all the way back up a different route to the Castle of the Moors.  It was very hard work (there are a LOT of steps) and 100% worth it – it’s a fascinating piece of history and architecture.  I’m ok with heights but I really do not like ‘edges’, so this tested me more than I care to admit.  I overcame the challenge though and made it to the top.  The views are indescribable – you could see all the way to the Pont 25 de Abril bridge in Lisbon!

The Castle of the Moors

The view from the top – the large white building in the bottom left of the image is the National Palace

After spending time investigating and learning about the Castle of the Moors, I made my way back down into historic Sintra for a much needed (and very delicious) ice cream before heading across to Quinta de la Regaleira.  I had originally planned to see this UNESCO World Heritage site last out of the four places I wanted to see, but switched things around because I really wanted to make sure I had enough time to explore this one.  Quinta de la Regaleira was the only thing in Sintra that I hadn’t pre-booked a ticket for, so I had to queue – it moved pretty quickly and I wasn’t waiting for long.

Once I was inside the site I headed straight for the initiation well, which I had to queue again for.  It was definitely worth it – it’s an amazing structure.  You’re not allowed to stop for more than about ten seconds to actually look at anything or snap a photo (there are staff there to make sure everyone keeps moving), which I felt was a shame.  I really wanted to take it all in slowly and really get a feel for the history of it.  It’s believed to have been used for ceremonial purposes, and there are nine levels – some say it’s connected to the Knights Templar, others suggest they represent the nine levels of hell.  Either way, it was a fascinating experience and, despite the crowds, there was a definite eerie atmosphere to the place.

At the bottom of the well there is an intricate system of underground tunnels leading to a network of caves and a waterfall.  Once you re-emerge, blinking in the light, the grounds of the Quinta (‘manor house’) are spread out in all directions in front of you and it feels like a bit of a maze.  Every path you take leads to something interesting – a grotto, a chapel, a fountain, a tower, a gothic building…  They’re all beautiful, intricately decorative examples of architecture.  I could have stayed there for hours wandering around and exploring it all.

Looking down into the initiation well

Partway down the spiral staircase of the initiation well

There were some amazing structures sprinkled throughout the grounds of Quinta de la Regaleira

The detailing on this one was incredible

Here you can see the Castle of the Moors on the top of the hill in the distance

I slowly walked back to Sintra – it was getting towards late afternoon by this point and I was flagging a bit energy-wise.  I very nearly skipped the National Palace – situated right in the heart of the town – but changed my mind at the last minute as I was determined to see everything I possibly could and make the most of every minute of my time there.  I am so glad I decided to go because it was utterly captivating.

The National Palace – once a medieval royal residence – is the oldest palace in Portugal and it holds around 1000 years of history within it’s walls.  Because of the time of day I was there, it was very quiet inside and there were hardly any people around – a stark contrast to the busy-ness of the other three sites I’d been to earlier in the day.  There are multiple rooms to explore and each of them had a uniquely fascinating story to tell.  There were ceilings decorated with swans, magpies, mermaids and ships – each one symbolising something meaningful.  The heraldic room (Sala dos Brasoes) was astonishing.  I actually gasped out loud when I walked in.  The immense domed ceiling, the coats of arms, and the walls covered in 18th century azulejos were a breath-taking and unexpected finale.

Close up of the ceiling in the Swan Room

The Swan Room

Couldn’t resist 😉

The heraldic room (Sala dos Brasoes)

I was quietly contemplative on the bus and train journeys back to Lisbon.  It had been an intense day full of new challenges, new experiences and new learnings, and I wanted to absorb it all and let it soak in so that I would remember it forever.

After refuelling, I headed back out one final time to catch the sunset at Miradouro de Santa Catarina again.  It would be rude not to seeing as it was only a five minute (albeit punishingly steep, uphill) walk from my airbnb.  I was determined not to miss a single sunset if I could possibly help it and, of course, it was 100% worth the extra achy leg muscles –  the sky put on a spectacular show.  There was a different busker here this evening and the whole place had a chilled and easygoing vibe.  Once ‘home’, I fell into bed and slept deeply, ready for the next day of adventures.

Sunset at Miradouro de Santa Catarina

WEDNESDAY – {morning adventures}

I like to try and watch at least one sunrise as well as a sunset whenever I travel anywhere new.  It helps me feel like I’ve really seen all the different moods of a place if I manage to see both – they each have such a distinct feel to them.  After extensive research, I decided that Miradouro de Santa Luzia would be the best place.  It was roughly a half hour walk from the airbnb.  I set off in plenty of time but I could see the light already beginning to glow so I didn’t think I was going to make it in time – I’d forgotten to factor in the steep hills and multiple staircases and the fact that it takes me longer to walk any given distance compared to if it was flat.

I needn’t have worried – I got there at the perfect time and it was as spectacularly beautiful as I’d hoped for.  I captured the photographs I wanted, then sat on the wall and quietly watched it – a new day dawning right in front of my eyes.  I know it sounds silly but I did get a little emotional (sunrises and sunsets do that to me!) – I just felt so lucky to be there witnessing it.

It was really quite peaceful at the miradouro too, other than the occasional tram rumbling past.  There were a few other people, but not many, which surprised me.  With views across the rooftops of the city; the water glittering on the horizon; picturesque archways spilling over with vibrant bougainvillea; and azulejos telling stories on the walls I’d have expected it to be crowded.  It felt like I’d discovered a secret, hidden place and I think that made it all the more special.

Sunrise at Miradouro de Santa Luzia

There was another miradouro just a little further up the street – Miradouro das Portas do Sol.  The sun was still putting on a gorgeous display so I headed up there out of curiosity and was amazed to find a completely alternative viewpoint of the city even though the two locations are literally only minutes apart.  Watching the sunrise from these two different spots was definitely a highlight of my time exploring Lisbon.

I took a few detours on the way back to the airbnb – some deliberate, some unintended.  I spent some time outside the oldest house in Lisbon – at over 500 years old it survived the earthquake of 1755 that devastated much of the city.  Nearby was Calcada da Amalia Rodriguez – a tiled portrait of a Portuguese singer known as the ‘Queen of Fado’.  I unexpectedly stumbled across a comic strip hidden in a tunnel which depicts Lisbon’s colourful history, and I meandered the streets, paying attention to the details of the city – little pieces of street art and graffiti, colourful tiles, plant-filled balconies and exquisite architecture…

Sunrise at Miradouro das Portas do Sol

A comic strip hidden in a tunnel

It depicted the entire history of Lisbon!

WEDNESDAY – {afternoon excursion}

In addition to expeditions to Cascais and Sintra, the other mini-excursion I wanted to do whilst exploring Lisbon was a visit to Belem.  It’s only an eight-minute train journey from the main station (Cais do Sodre) so I figured I’d spend the final full afternoon of my trip there.

I strolled along the waterfront to Doca de Belem, people-watching as I went and enjoying the views across the River Tejo.  There were teeny jellyfish merrily pulsing their way through the turquoise water, surrounded by fish, and then a little further around I spotted a HUGE jellyfish, just casually swimming along.  I stood there for ages gazing at it, utterly fascinated by the way it moved.

When I was finally able to tear myself away from the jellyfish, the Padrao dos Descobrimentos loomed, large and imposing, right in front of me.  This immense structure is an homage to the explorers of the ‘Age of Discoveries’ who travelled across the world to new lands and brought back riches and stories that no one had ever seen or heard of before.  It’s a hugely impressive structure and the detail in the figures is startlingly accurate.  It’s possible to go inside and climb to the top for incredible views, though I opted out as I was planning to go up the Tower of Belem instead.

The huge jellyfish that captured my attention for quite some time

The impressive Padrao dos Descobrimentos

I continued around Doca do Bom Sucesso towards Torre del Belem.  I’d planned to go in and see the view from the top, and then I saw the exceedingly long queue so I decided to give it a miss and simply admired it from the outside instead.

From there I crossed over the bridge that spans the main road and railway line and walked back towards the town, intending to visit Mosteiro dos Jeronimos – another UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Again, the queue was enormous (even if you’d purchased tickets in advance, which I hadn’t).  I didn’t fancy standing in almost 30°C heat and full sun for an hour so I decided to save it for a future trip, hoping that I’ll be exploring Lisbon one day again in the not-too-distant future.

I wandered through the shade of the trees in Praca do Imperio, where I discovered a busker playing a Ludovico Einaudi piece (‘Experience’) and I paused there for a while to listen to him before making my way back to the train station.  I enjoyed my brief visit to Belem, and at the same time I don’t think I saw or experienced it at it’s best.  Next time!

Torre del Belem

Determined to end the day on a high note, I headed out to watch the final sunset of my trip.  I went to Miradouro de Santa Caterina first – the same busker as last night was there again – and then, wanting a different view, I raced down to Cais das Pombas (near Cais do Sodre train station) to catch it over the water too.  I’m so glad I did – the colours were incredible.  A perfect last evening spent exploring Lisbon.

Sunset at Cais das Pombas

THURSDAY – {travelling home}

I had one final thing in mind for my last morning exploring Lisbon before flying back home later.  I was up and out of the Airbnb early enough to watch the sunrise by the water at Bandeira da Europa and the sky performed very obligingly.  It was utterly spectacular, and walking along the waterfront, watching the city wake up from a totally different viewpoint, was the perfect end to my trip.

Sunrise at Bandeira da Europa

I packed, checked out, and caught the train to Oriente station – my last couple of hours of exploring Lisbon were to be spent at Parque das Nacoes.

Oriente station was definitely divided into two very distinct sections,  At the front it was an incredible piece of architecture, pleasingly streamlined with dramatic sweeping arcs.  The large shopping centre inside it was squeaky clean and air conditioned.  Then, at the back of the structure and inside the station itself was a lengthy, dimly-lit corridor flanked by long stone benches on either side.  On every single bench there were multiple homeless people stretched out trying to sleep, barefoot and thin, their few belongings tucked around them.  It was one of the saddest things I’ve ever seen – there must have been at least fifty of them.  I saw quite a lot of poverty whilst I was exploring Lisbon, it didn’t seem to be a particularly affluent city.  I found it hard not knowing what to do to help.

I wandered from Oriente down towards the river and turned left, to see the cable cars, Torre Vasco de Gama, and Ponte Vasco de Gama – Europe’s longest bridge – which really was a spectacular sight, stretching out into the water as far as the eye could see (and beyond – I genuinely couldn’t see the end of it!).  If I’d turned right instead I’d have seen the aquarium and the marina.

Teleferico at Parque das Nacoes

I have absolutely no idea what relevance this giant cat sculpture has to anything, but I liked it! If you look closely to can see a couple of people on the right hand side of it to give a sense of just how huge it was.

I’m not sure if it was made out of recycled materials, or rubbish that had been collected – either way it was very cool and creative.

I got to the airport early and cleared security, picked up some pasteis de nata in duty free as gifts to take home and before long I was back in England sharing stories from my trip with the girls.

I had an incredible time exploring Lisbon.  It really is a fascinating city full of history and unique culture.  I loved getting underneath the surface of it and, as with most places I visit, I left a little piece of my heart there.  I’m definitely going to need to return one day because there was so much more I wanted to see and experience that I didn’t quite manage to do.

Exploring Lisbon – more suggestions

To end this post: a list of suggestions for additional things to see and do whilst exploring Lisbon…

• Castelo Sao Jorge
• National Tile Museum
• the rest of the miradouros, particularly Graca,
• LX Factory
• Time Out Market
• Teleferico at Parque das Nacoes
• Botanic Gardens
• experince live Fado music
• Parque Eduardo VII for views across the city
• art galleries
• Mosteiro dos Jeronimos in Belem
• try pasteis de nata from Belem
• Cristo Rei

What would you add to the list?